Helpful Research Tips

 Please Join me in welcoming our second Guest Writer, Craig Schmidt



This a few helpful research hints for you gentlemen that are just starting out. The hardest thing to get, surprisingly enough, is where to start. Who are you? Where are you from? What time period? What profession? All these things will dictate your dress, and accoutrements.

For example, my area of “expertise” is Colonial and Republic era Texas (c. 1821 – 1845). I usually portray a ranger or Republic era dragoon. What makes this a challenge is that the history is so intertwined with legend and myth that finding the truth is a hard thing. But the basics are fairly easy. Fashion of the time is well documented and easy enough to reproduce. But a few notes of caution.

Be sure you know the usage of terms. Many word definitions today do not reflect what they mean it the late 18^th or 19^th centuries. For example, my first flintlock was a Jaeger rifle. I had seen where a list of stores requested by the Consultation for the People’s Army included Yager (Jaeger) rifles. So I assumed that this was the short German style rifle used by German Jaegers (Scouts/light infantry, literally hunters.). Later in my research I found that this reference was most likely in regard to the M1803 Harper’s Ferry Rifle, or even the M1817 Common Rifle. Just as a reference to a “biscuit” is not necessarily the light fluffy breakfast food, but depending on the usage could be hardtack (aka sea biscuit).

Also, spelling can be tricky. Especially in firsthand accounts (Journals, diaries and the such.) spelling is often phonetic, and sometimes the same word is spelled differently in the same sentence. Names also suffer from this same affliction. So what you think might be references to two different people, are, in fact, referencing one person.

The other maddening thing about using firsthand accounts is that usually there is only detail about the unusual. The common place is just that and there is no need to detail the common as everyone knows it.

Let’s consider sources for a bit. It’s tempting to use the internet exclusively. The internet is convenient, but there’s no substitution for good old fashioned book work. My personal library for specifically Texas pre-state history has a rough total of between twenty and thirty volumes. And it continues to grow.

Whenever possible, firsthand accounts are the best material for really getting a view on the attitudes of the time. As well as an insight into speech patterns

It’s not necessary to buy books like a wild thing. The public library is a perfectly fine resource. I just like to be able to access my references whenever I want. Amazon, Alibris and Powell’s are my friends… And don’t forget periodicals!

 

Another word on books/articles etc., always check the bibliography. It’s a treasure-trove of new sources and could possibly lead to a nugget that could easily be overlooked. Which explains why my bookshelves are overflowing currently…

Somewhere along the line in your research you’ll run across some really neat accoutrement, or article of clothing that you really like. But you need to be able to justify why your persona would have such an item, or article of clothing. Just because something exists at the time period doesn’t necessarily mean it was available to you where you’re located.

Using me as an example, as a ranger in Colonial/Republic Texas I probably would not have leggings in the style of the northeastern tribes (A recent immigrant might… But I usually portray a person that has been in country for a while.). It is more likely that I would be wearing Mexican style botas. See the picture of the Soldado de cuera below.

Photo courtesy of Armas y armaduras en Espania

  

Likewise a large clip-point Bowie, while I personally love them, wouldn’t be quite appropriate for an early Texian Anglo. I use an eight inch “Longhunter” knife, or a ten inch Spanish/Mexican Belduque.

 

Top to Bottom: Mid to late 19^th Century Bowie, Spanish/Mexican Belduque, “Longhunter” Knife (Photo: Craig Schmidt, C. Schmidt Collection)

While all three are similar, the correct blade can make the difference between an O.K. impression and a stunning impression.

I hope that this helps somewhat. There are many other pitfalls, and cautions, but you need to take the first step. Make your decisions on your era, and profession, and go from there.

Happy hunting, um… researching!

 

Magic, Science and the Regency Era

 Please welcome our first guest writer, Professor D.R. Schreiber, "The Historical Conjurer"

Chevalier Joseph Pinetti 1750-1800

In the late 18^th and early 19^th Century, science, industry, technology and innovations were on the move.  It was the discoveries of many men from the age of Enlightenment that lead to these early ideas that planted the seed for the industrial revolution.  The relatively fast pace of advancements made it challenging for even the most educated of gentleman to stay attune.  

The gentlemen conjurer  (magicians) of the Regency era took advantage of this fact.  Often during a demonstration or lecture, a “Professor of Natural Philosophy,” as many conjurers would call themselves, would display what he claimed to be his experiments into science.  Most of the gentleman in the audience would have read about these types of advancements in the newspaper, but had yet to behold them in person.  It was only imagined what they might look like.  So too the conjurer most likely had little or no scientific knowledge.  Instead, his imagination would recreate the experiment using the trickery or deception necessary to make the experiment work correctly.

As a conjurer myself, I attempt to evoke the style, emotion, and spirit of the late 18^th and early 19^th century by asking the question, "What would a Regency gentleman have believed to be possible?"  With the recent harnessing of lightning, would they be led to believe that man can control the weather, or perhaps that lightning can be directed at man’s own will?  The ideas and theories of Dr. Franz Mesmer led many to believe that mind control was just a step away.  With simple concentration, a person could be made to perform the wishes of the mind controller.  The development of steam power helped to forge the concept that man could move anything with the aid of a machine.

It only took the slight imagination of a conjurer to create a way to make these discoveries come true.  These creations filled the scientific lecture halls with all sorts of apparatus and experiments, many no more than “bells and whistles” meant to hide the actual workings of the illusion.  Gentlemen and ladies alike flocked to places like the Royal Institute to view first-hand these performances of magic disguised as demonstrations of science.

While some might argue that these conjurers were deceptive manipulators, it could be argued that their demonstrations helped to move forward scientific exploration by feeding the public’s fascination for these scientific pursuits.  One example is the use of nitrous oxide, or laughing gas.  The gas was isolated in 1772, but was first demonstrated to the public in 1801 as a humorous display of a scientific discovery.  Soon, many conjurers incorporated a laughing gas performance into their act.  It was during one of these conjuring performances that an audience member, a dentist, finally imagined an actual medical use for nitrous oxide, and the next day he performed the first painless tooth extraction with the use of the gas.  If not for the inventiveness of these conjurers, the true power of nitrous oxide would not have been discovered.

One can only imagine what other innovations or developments of science and industry would have lay untouched or unmoved, if it were not for these gentle conjurers.

Your Humble Servant,

Prof. D.R. Schreiber.

Resources & Further Reading:

 "The Great Illusionists" by Edwin A. Dawes. Published by Chartwell Books in 1979.
"Modern Enchantments: The Cultural Power of Secular Magic" by Simon During. Published by Harvard University Press in 2002.
"The Illustrated History of Magic" by Milbourne and Maurine Christopher. Published by Carroll & Graff in 2006
"Chevalier Pinetti - Conjurer" By Henry Ridgley Evans.  Published in "The Open Court" magazine in 1903.
"Memoirs of Robert-Houdin" by Jean Eugene Robert Houdin.  Published by George G. Evans in 1859.
"The Lives of the Conjurers" by Thomas Frost. Published by Tinsley Brothers in 1876.
"Leaves from Conjurers Scarp Books" by HJ Burlingame.  PUblished by Donohue, Henneberry and Company in 1891.

Contact the Professor here:

 http://www.historicalconjurer.com

 http://www.facebook.com/people/Historical-Conjurer/100000948473818

The Art of Dueling

The History of Dueling is a bloody one based around the idea of
‘defending one’s honour.’

The personal Duel of Honour vs. the older Judicial Duel most probably
has its roots in the duel of Jarnac vs. Châtaigneraie. Officially,
this was a Judicial duel, both men had grievances and brought them
before the King. In theory, the duel would have been fought and the
winner declared ‘right’ in the eyes of the King and God. In reality,
the fight dragged on, Châtaigneraie was severely injured, but would
not surrender. The King refused to declare the fight over and
Châtaigneraie bled out on the field.

This duel is often cited as the ‘last’ judicial duel or the ‘first’
duel of honour. This is oversimplified, but the point is valid. Before
this time duels were primarily judicial, overseen by the Crown or
representative thereof and were considered legally binding. After this
time, duels became private affairs between individuals over points of
honour and were usually considered illegal (but often unofficially
sactioned, pardoned or out right ignored).

There were a variety of dueling codes (code duello) used in different
parts of the Western world at different times. The codes defined who
could be challenged for what, what rights the challenged had, what
rights the challenger had and what the ‘win’ conditions were.

A copy of the 1777 Irish Code Duello may be seen here:
http://www.speakeasy.org/~dr_gary/Naval/Duello/Duello1777.htm

In the movie “The Duelists” the character Jacquin offers up three ways
d'Hubert can avoid fighting Feraud again:
“You cannot fight,
One: if you're in different places. Physical impossibility.
Two: if you're of different rank. Breach of discipline.
And three: if the state is at war. Duels of nations take absolute precedence.
Therefore, keep away from him. Keep ahead of him. Put your trust in Bonaparte!”
http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0075968/

Two additional  links, that got me thinking about this article:

“The Duel at Blood Creek”

“A Gentlemen’s Duel”

-- Colonel Etienne de Valois, duelist

The Sharp Dressed Man Revealed : Online Sutlers & Made to Order Clothing

This month's edition covers putting together a Gentleman's starter ensemble.

BIBLIOTHÈQUE DES ARTS DÉCORATIFS

So, I know that everyone wants the perfect ‘look.’ Whether that be the
perfect ‘Beau Brummel’ or the perfect ‘Captain Wentworth’ or the
perfect ‘Colonel Brandon.’ But we must be realistic in how we approach
a new and expensive hobby.

BIBLIOTHÈQUE DES ARTS DÉCORATIFS 1810

When I started fencing I did not go out and buy a $200 mask and the
best blade on a custom hilt. I bought a good mask and a blade that was
good enough to get me on the field. Now, many years later I have the
best mask I have found and many custom hilted weapons with top end
blades.

When I started shooting black powder I shopped around for a rifle that
would be fun and safe, but was not going to break the bank. Now I have
ordered my first semi-custom rifle and am getting into some more
expensive accessories.

If we were all lottery winners, then we could go straight to “Empire
Costume” and spend thousands of Euros and look perfect. I do not think
I am speaking to that crowd.

So, we have to come up with an affordable way to look the part, but do
it in reasonable comfort and without breaking the bank.

There are many sutlers out there, but the one I have had the most
success with is Jas. Townsend and Son. Now, keep in mind that there
are many other sutlers out there as well as people that may be willing
to do custom work for affordable prices. This is meant as one example
of using an available sutler to get dressed for events.

The basic ‘Beau Brummel’ look requires a dark coat, dark or cream
(depending on time of day) waistcoat, breeches or trousers, white
shirt, white cravat, black boots and a top hat.

BIBLIOTHÈQUE DES ARTS DÉCORATIFS

So, first the coat, Townsend does not (yet) offer a Regency Tailcoat,
but they do have two nice ones from a bit earlier. I prefer the linen
coat for this look because it does have a stand up collar.

Linen coat ($240):
http://jas-townsend.com/product_info.php?cPath=1_17&products_id=825

Next the waist coat. Townsend has a nice one that, unfortunately, lacks pockets.

Waistcoat ($90):
http://jas-townsend.com/product_info.php?cPath=1_4&products_id=470

BIBLIOTHÈQUE DES ARTS DÉCORATIFS

Breeches or Trousers? I personally prefer breeches for most outfits,
but I know many Gentlemen may feel silly in them. So, trousers are a
perfectly good alternative. I am only including references for the
linen examples, but there are also cotton canvas and wool. Keep in
mind that if you go with breeches you will also need stockings and
possible stocking garters.

Breeches ($95):
http://jas-townsend.com/product_info.php?cPath=1_17&products_id=497
Trousers ($95):
http://jas-townsend.com/product_info.php?cPath=1_4&products_id=501

Fancy Stockings ($9.50):
http://jas-townsend.com/product_info.php?cPath=5&products_id=887
Plain Stockings ($10):
http://jas-townsend.com/product_info.php?cPath=5&products_id=238
Garters ($7.50):
http://jas-townsend.com/product_info.php?cPath=5&products_id=245
The shirt is easy ($35):
http://jas-townsend.com/product_info.php?cPath=1_17&products_id=491

As is the cravat ($15):
http://jas-townsend.com/product_info.php?cPath=1_17&products_id=1179

I would not do boots, riding boots start at $200.

Shoes are easier ($95):
http://jas-townsend.com/product_info.php?cPath=5&products_id=244
And they need buckles ($40):
http://jas-townsend.com/product_info.php?cPath=5&products_id=336
Other shoes: http://www.fugawee.com/men%27s%20colonial.htm

BIBLIOTHÈQUE DES ARTS DÉCORATIFS

Bibliotheque des Arts Decoratifs 1813

Alternately, some modern shoes that buckle closed may be acceptable.

I would not bother with the less used accessories like a top hat,
walking stick, period eyewear, pocket watches until later.

So, once you have your one outfit then you can start upgrading and/or
adding detail bits. Some of which are listed above and are available
from a variety of sutlers.


-       Colonel de Valois

References and Resources:

1)      Empire Costume: http://en.empirecostume.com/
2)      Jas. Townsend and Son: http://jas-townsend.com/
3)      Cobb Creek: http://www.cobbcreek.com/mens_clothing.htm
4)      Smiling Fox Forge: http://www.smilingfoxforgellc.com/
5)      Corps Sutler: http://corpsutler.tripod.com/
6)      All images courtesy of  Bibliotheque des Arts Decoratifs

The Quest for a British Infantry Rifle

Good Evening,

I began shooting blackpowder about a year an a half ago.  The Baker Rifle (more correctly known as the British Infantry Rifle)  was the famous rifle of the British 95th rifles and features as an important pseudo-character in the Bernard Cornwell Sharpe's series (starting with “Sharpe's Rifles”).   As an avid fan of both the Sharpe's book series and the Sharpe's video series I decided that I wanted a Baker Rifle of my own.
Turns out this was far easier said than done. Early research found that no one makes a production reproduction of the Baker Rifle. There is an India made reproduction, but it has a smoothbore not a rifled
barrel. The apparent reason for this is that you have two distinct groups commonly firing reproduction black powder weapons. Military reenactors and Fur Trade reenactors. The military reenactors are perfectly happy with the smoothbore, they are mostly firing blanks anyway so the rifled barrel is unnecessary and even an inconvenience. For the Fur Trade reenactors, the Baker Rifle is not one that there is a lot of interest in. You see way more American style long rifles (Kentucky, Pennsylvania, etc.).

This is not to say that there are not people shooting a rifled Baker Rifle, but they are rare and their rifles are, by necessity, customized to some level. For example Track of the Wolf has a custom made Baker Ordnance Rifle for almost $2700. Nice rifle, but not the pattern I am looking for. I also found some that were being custom made in England, exactly the pattern I wanted, for as much as £3500 (I do not even want to convert that to dollars).
I began with a Pedersolli Kentucky Longrifle in .50 caliber. This has been a very good rifle and will always be my 'first' rifle. However, I still wanted a Baker Rifle. Now I had much more time to work on it as I already had a rifle to shoot. In time, and with much help from Craig Schmidt, I searched more thoroughly. Digging through the forums of the various 95th Rifles reenactment groups. Talking with Sutlers and gunsmiths.
The conclusion I came to was to get an India made Baker Rifle (smoothbore) from Track of the Wolf. Have it sent to Mr. Ed Rayl, barrel-maker, who will swap out the smoothbore for a custom rifled barrel.
This part of the project starts tomorrow.

If all goes well I will have a completed, semi-custom Baker Rifle by the middle of May, perhaps in time for my birthday. While waiting, I will start assembling a shooting kit for this new rifle.


- Colonel de Valois



References:

Wiki overview of the Baker Rifle:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Baker_rifle

Bernard Cornwell, Sharpe's Series
http://www.bernardcornwell.net/index2.cfm?page=1&seriesid=1

Track of the Wolf, India made Baker Rifle:
http://www.trackofthewolf.com/categories/partDetail.aspx?catId=12&subId=81&styleId=282&partNum=AAJ-226

Track of the Wolf, full custom Baker Ordnance Rifle:
http://www.trackofthewolf.com/Categories/partDetail.aspx?catId=12&subId=81&styleId=282&partNum=AAK-367

Pedersoli, Kentucky Rifle;
http://www.davide-pedersoli.com/scheda-prodotto.asp/l_en/idpr_91/rifles-kentucky-kentucky-flintlock-model.html

Le Chevalier "Throws Down the Gauntlet"

Good Evening Gentlemen,

There is a common concern / complaint / belief that there is very little for Gentlemen to do at Georgian and Regency events.

This is, for the most part, true; and is true because there are very few Gentlemen attending these events.

"What did Gentlemen do?" You ask. Shooting, Fencing, Riding, Rowing, Fishing, Gambling, Smoking, Drinking, Dancing and Looking Good. Obviously, not all of these are going to appeal to all people. Also, some are expensive, especially the first three. Although the Fencing and Shooting may be dabbled in relatively easily.

At Balls it is pretty easy to find a small table and a few friends for a game of Whist. Don't know how to play? No worries, plenty of us do. With regards to Gambling, we would like to avoid real money changing hands, but poker chips, tokens or replica coins may be used. There has been talk about having a year long Whist tournament.

There are a few avenues for fencing. I myself run a Georgian / Victorian fencing practice on most Sunday afternoons. Contact me directly if interested. Academia Duellatoria here in Beaverton also offers classes in western martial arts.

http://duellatoria.com/

All of these activities require that one 'look' the part. Many modern Gentlemen can be put off by the knee breaches and silk stockings. If this is the case, move forward a few years when they go
out of style and trousers come in. The classic 'Beau Brummel' look is basically the predecessor of the modern suit.

http://www.wemakehistory.com/Fashion/Regency/RegencyMen/RegencyMen.htm
http://www.georgianindex.net/tailors/tailor.html

Another option is a Military or Navy look. These two take a bit more work and will be discussed later.

Keep in mind, that for the amount of events you are likely to attend, one outfit will largely suffice.


We have planned a series of three events this summer:

1) A Day at the River. Canoeing, fishing and a pique-nique.
2) A Day at the Salle. An assault of arms with sabre, smallsword, la canne, singlestick, bayonet, rapier, etc.
2) A Day at the Fort. Introduction to black powder flintlock weapons.


In conclusion, when it comes right down to it, in order to get more Gentlemen's Activities we need more Gentlemen willing to come out. At present there are only a few of us and while we enjoy having the ladies to ourselves it would be nice to have more fellows about.

-- Colonel Le Chevalier Etienne de Valois

Welcome to the ORS's Gentlemanly Pursuits page.



Image courtesy of Empire Costume, France.

 The Oregon Regency Society is striving to provide more options for our male participants. In part, we have created this page.

This page will focus on historical and instructional material, costume-related topics for gentlemen, resources for patterns, weapons and kits, most importantly, events listings for men's activities and more.

If you are a regency enthusiast and a gentleman, then this is the place for you. 

Welcome.  We hope to see you at one of our events very soon.